Weekend in Asheville, NC

The Blue Ridge Parkway is one of the most scenic drives in the country.

September 16, 2011 - It’s a Friday afternoon; long week.  What do you do?  Decide to do a random road trip, of course!  We briefly considered our options and settled on on Asheville, NC and the Blue Ridge Parkway.  Tony made hotel reservations while Louisa packed a suitcase, and we were on the road!

The first day of the trip was very foggy.

September 17, 2011 - The first hike of the day was the Mt. Pisgah trail.  The trail reminded us of a scene out of “Lord of the Rings,” it’s lined with rhododendron bushes and features a slightly uphill, curving path and sections with stone steps and tree roots covering the path.  Once we reached the top we were greeted with some interesting fog views.  It was moving past us, and occasionally we could catch glimpses of neighboring ridges covered with trees.  The return trip featured lots of juncos; we also heard a few chickadees and saw our first Eastern Towhee.

Even though it was foggy, it was still a really bright day.

Up next was part of a trail to an old fire tower.  This trail had different scenery – it was more grassy, less rocky trail, and lined with deciduous trees covered in moss.  Once the trail started to descend prior to yet another uphill stretch, we decided we’d seen enough and headed back downhill to the car. ;-)

We saw the sign... and continued our trek.

Our drive along the Blue Ridge Parkway continued as we tried to find parking at Graveyard Fields.  By 1pm parking was at a non-existent premium, so we hiked up the (crowded, but still had available parking) nearby knob trail.  The trail gave us some nice views of the neighboring mountaintops, as well as the fog below us.  Yes, we were above the clouds!

Asheville provides good views of the mountains.

Early Girl Eatery in downtown Asheville was the dinner destination of choice.  We sampled a variety of dishes, and greatly enjoyed each one – broccoli and cheddar hush puppies with apple butter (so different, so good!), grilled pork loin (thin sliced, nice and smoky) with white, bacon-flecked gravy, candied yams (one of us loved these, the other thought the flavor wasn’t quite their style – too much orange and nutmeg; they were good for what they were, though) and mac n’cheese (creamy, milder white cheese sauce), a mixed bean burger with BBQ sauce (great burger, very moist, but couldn’t really taste the BBQ sauce in it) and avocado/sautéed red onion/tomatoes (all fresh!) and lettuce, roasted curry squash soup (perfect with a bit of salt and pepper seasoning), and a biscuit with homemade blackberry jam (let me just say you *need* this biscuit and jam!).  The food was all fabulous, as you can tell from all the excited parentheses; good enough to warrant two trips in two days?  Definitely!

Asheville does not know how to do boring artwork.

After dinner fun was an REI shopping trip to get Louisa some hiking boots, then we went back to the hotel.  Although there was a fair going on near the hotel, traffic wasn’t too bad. :)

Another foggy morning, until we got above the clouds.

September 18, 2011 - We got to Graveyard Flats early to get a parking spot, and walked over to see a few of the waterfalls.  The trail is nice and easy (well, after an initial steep downhill) and gets crowded quickly.  We beat most of the crowds, though, and so had a chance to view the water and beginning Fall foliage in uninterrupted solitude, at least for a few minutes. ;-)

We brought sunglasses this time.

As promised, dinner was again at Early Girl Eatery.  We had to start with the hush puppies again, this time with both the apple butter and garlic/dill dressing.  We actually preferred the dressing to the apple butter; it’s similar to a Greek dressing.  Entrees were a pan seared trout with toasted almond butter, mashed potatoes, mac ‘n cheese, curry pumpkin soup (a bit sweet, and even better than the squash soup), and a buttery, melt-y, fabulous pimento grilled cheese sandwich.

The leaves were starting to change color in the higher elevations.

Downtown Asheville is reminiscent of an artist’s community; there are sculptures, paintings on the side of buildings, and street performers on multiple corners.  Louisa had a hankering for ice cream; on the way over to the shop we passed a woman dressed as a clown, standing in a doorway and juggling while singing a Fleetwood Mac song. ;-)

More clouds were starting to roll in by mid-afternoon.

Kilwins was our after dinner stop for ice cream and fudge.  We tried toasted coconut and dulce de leche ice cream, as well as chocolate peanut butter and French silk fudge.  Everything was delicious and tasted very fresh; the ice cream was actually some of the best we’ve ever had!  We would definitely stop there again for ice cream and candy.

Reviews:

Early Girl Eatery on Urbanspoon Kilwin's - Asheville on Urbanspoon

Final hike in Acadia; VT and NH (8/21/10)

Breakfast at the Ullikana Inn.

Breakfast was served outside; we snagged a table for two and looked at the water through the trees as we waited for the (delicious) food – maple syrup muffins, coffee, an orange juice and cranberry juice mixed blend, cantaloupe balls with a simple mint syrup, and German pancake with fresh blueberries and raspberries.

Triple Arch Bridge by Jordan Pond House.

After breakfast we drove around the Western part of the park (along Route 3), under the triple arch bridge and parked at Jordan Pond House.  Fortunately, we were there relatively early, so there were still plenty of parking spaces.

View of the Jordan Pond from the trail.

Our hike for the day was another double mountain – the Penobscot and Sargent Mountain trail. The weather was perfect, and we had trail almost to ourselves.  The initial section of the trail involved hiking over and up a giant rock wall.  This initial uphill section also had stairs cut into the rocks (great for quick elevation gain).  We found some great uninterrupted views along rock outcroppings along the trail.

There were many cairns placed on the trail.

This trail was the perfect final hike in the park.  The views were plentiful and varied – we could see the Atlantic, Frenchman’s Bay, the Sound, Bar Harbor, Northeast Harbor, Jordan Pond, the Hadlock Ponds (both Upper and Lower – we had hiked around one of them the previous day), and Cadillac Mountain.

The "bottomless" lake.

After reaching the summit of Penobscot Mountain, we hiked down to Sargent Mountain Lake.  It’s located in the saddle between Sargent and Penobscot Mountains; in the 1800s, it was thought to be bottomless.

The view from the top of Sargent Mountain was amazing.

The views on the way down weren't too shabby either.

We hiked up the final ridge to the top of Sargent Mountain.  The views from the top, and the views on the return trip, were perfect.

After the hike we got pop at the Jordan Pond House (the wait was too long to stay and eat; over two hours for seating) and hit the road.  We stopped just outside of town for great  picnic lunch of pulled pork BBQ (with some very good sweet BBQ sauce) at Maine-ly Meat.  The sides weren’t anything special, and may have been frozen; however, the BBQ itself made up for that.

Shake shake shake... shake shake shake... Shaker Village. Shaker Village.

Somewhere, in a little town in the middle of nowhere (it was by a Shaker village, which may just prove that point…), we stopped for dinner – we split a meatball sub from Subway, a blueberry muffin from Dunkin Donuts, a pumpkin whoopee pie with cream cheese filling and an iced green tea with blueberry and acai juices.

The White Mountains at dusk.

The rest of the evening was full of new states.  We drove through Maine into NH, and along the Kancamagus Highway into the White Mountain region.  New Hampshire was pretty, and had some cute little towns, trees, and mountains.  Just after dusk, we also saw a moose run across the road and disappear into the forest.

We eventually drove into Vermont, and stayed at the Fairbanks Inn in St. Johnsbury.  We were fortunate to have reservations, since all the hotels between St. Johnsbury and Quebec were full.

Goat Trail (8/20/2010)

There's a cool rock boulder in Bar Harbor.

We began the day with another nice breakfast – bing cherry, pineapple, cherry cream frozen fruit salad; dijon potatoes; Belgium waffle with blueberries and lightly whipped cream for Louisa, ham and gouda strata (with sun dried tomatoes and chives) for Tony.

Goats aren't the only animals found on the trail.

After breakfast we headed over to Norumbega mountain.  First we hiked up the goat trail, which is aptly named since it rises 600 feet in 0.6 miles and involves scrambling up a giant granite rock face.  Next cam a ridge line, then the Shadow Hill trail, which involves large quiet trees, moss covered rocks and ribbons of sunlight.  By now we were almost finished with the hike, but we still had a pond to walk around.  We also got to walk back to the car via another section of the goat trail; this one was literally covered with tangled tree roots and rocks.

At this point we were more than ready for some food, so we went back to Thurston’s for soft-shelled lobster for lunch.

Tree along the bay at Bar Harbor.

After lunch we drove back to Bar Harbor and checked into Henry’s room at the Inn at Ullikana.  The Inn was absolutely beautiful; our room was on the third floor, and had very detailed painting and stenciling on the walls and floor.  We got settled in, enjoyed the yummy afternoon spread of wine, cheese and crackers, and took a walk along the shore path.  The Inn is literally two blocks from the ocean, and even though it’s near the center of town, it feels as if it’s away from the hustle and bustle of Bar Harbor.

The room at the Inn was cozy, but nice.

We got dinner at Lompoc – falafel burger with hummus (yum!), and shrimp and bacon /cheese grits.  We ended the evening by walking through town, and viewing the stars through our room’s skylight.  We also decided to switch up the trip a bit, and take one last hike in Acadia tomorrow morning.

Mt. Elbert Trail

Yes, it is dark outside.

It was our last weekend in Colorado.  So, we decided to get up before dawn, grab sweatshirts and head lamps, drive three hours into the mountains, and go for a hike.  We got breakfast, made coffee, grabbed our stuff, and headed out.  It was early.  And dark.  And early.  Coffee could only do so much.

Don't be fooled, this is just a false summit.

We reached drove through Leadville, down a rocky dirt road, and finally reached the parking lot.  We got some nice views of the sunrise over Leadville.  After about 2.25 miles, and 2200′ of elevation gain, we passed treeline.  At this point, we decided to enjoy the views, catch our breath, and head back down the trail.  We’re glad we did, since in a clearing just past treeline Tony noticed a little blue grouse happily eating grass.  This was a new bird for us, and since she’s only found out West, we decided that was a fitting end to our CO travels.

Mt. Elbert's massive next door neighbor, Mt. Massive

On the drive back to Denver, we admired the historic buildings and painted advertisements in Leadville.